The Use of Hemispheric Directional Reflectance Method to Verify the Usefulness of Filters Protecting the Skin Against Infrared Radiation.

Introduction: Infrared radiation (IR) has a wide spectrum of both positive and harmful effects on the human body. Negative properties, manifested by increasing the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS), affect the skin ageing acceleration. Other adverse effect of infrared exposure is related to its ability to significantly penetrate deep into the skin, between its layers, up to blood vessels and other tissues and warm them up. Due to its harmful effects, protecting the skin against infrared radiation becomes an important issue. Aim: The aim of the research was verifying the usefulness of filters available on the market with protection against infrared radiation declared by the manufacturers, by examining their impact on the directional reflectance of the human skin. Methods: A group of 27 people was gathered, to obtain the results. Four products were applied on the participant's forearm skin, and then measurements of the directional reflectance of the skin were made at successive time points, using the 410-Solar reflectometer. The collected data was analyzed, and showed changes in reflectance under the influence of the applied protective products. Results: The products used in the study showed a statistically significant effect on the directional reflectance of the human skin in near infrared radiation range and little effectiveness for higher wavelengths. Discussion: The results indicate that the selected products show radiation protection against IR radiation only after several dozen minutes of application, which may suggest that they must penetrate deeper skin layers to be effective. Hemispheric directional reflectance turned out to be an effective method allows to assess the effectiveness of protective properties of cosmetics.

An Overview of the Analytical Methods for the Determination of Organic Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetic Products and Human Samples.

UV filters are a group of compounds commonly used in different cosmetic products to absorb UV radiation. They are classified into a variety of chemical groups, such as benzophenones, salicylates, benzotriazoles, cinnamates, p-aminobenzoates, triazines, camphor derivatives, etc. Different tests have shown that some of these chemicals are absorbed through the skin and metabolised or bioaccumulated. These processes can cause negative health effects, including mutagenic and cancerogenic ones. Due to the absence of official monitoring protocols, there is an increased number of analytical methods that enable the determination of those compounds in cosmetic samples to ensure user safety, as well as in biological fluids and tissues samples, to obtain more information regarding their behaviour in the human body. This review aimed to show and discuss the published studies concerning analytical methods for the determination of organic UV filters in cosmetic and biological samples. It focused on sample preparation, analytical techniques, and analytical performance (limit of detection, accuracy, and repeatability).

Avaliação da qualidade de produtos cosméticos contendo ácido glicólico / Quality assessment of cosmetic products containing glycolic acid / Evaluación de la calidad de los productos cosméticos que contienen ácido glicólico

RESUMO Introdução: O ácido glicólico é aplicado para o tratamento estético e dermatológico em formulações antirrugas (anti-aging), esfoliantes químicos (peeling). Considerando a grande utilização em produtos cosméticos, é de suma importância a realização do controle de qualidade dos produtos cosméticos contendo ácido glicólico, com a finalidade de garantir maior segurança para os usuários. Objetivo: Avaliar a qualidade de produtos cosméticos de venda livre contendo ácido glicólico disponíveis no comércio nacional. Materiais e métodos: Foram avaliadas 8 amostras de produtos cosméticos contendo ácido glicólico. Os testes realizados foram: análise do rótulo, características organolépticas dos produtos, determinação do pH, teste de centrifuga e doseamento do ácido glicólico. Quanto ao teor de ácido glicólico as 8 amostras foram aprovadas, pois permaneceram dentro do limite máximo estabelecido pela Anvisa de 10% de ácido glicólico. Resultados: No que se refere à avaliação do pH, 4 amostras apresentaram valores abaixo permitido, sendo que o uso de produtos com pH abaixo de 3,5 pode causar irritação e lesão da pele. Já na análise do rótulo as amostras manipuladas faltavam às recomendações e precauções de uso. Conclusão: Dessa forma, fica evidente a importância do controle de qualidade em produtos contendo ácido glicólico para conferir segurança e eficácia para os usuários.

SUMMARY Introduction: Glycolic acid is applied for the aesthetic and dermatological treatment in anti-aging formulations, chemical exfoliators (peeling). Considering the great use of glycolic acid in cosmetic products and their applicability, it is become important to carry out the quality control of cosmetic products containing glycolic acid, in order to guarantee its quality as well safety to users. Aim: To evaluate the quality of glycolic acid in cosmetic over the counter available in the national market. Materials and methods: 8 samples of cosmetic products containing glycolic acid were evaluated. The following tests were performed: label analysis, organoleptic characteristics of the products, pH determination, centrifuge test and glycolic acid assay (volumetric analysis). Regarding the glycolic acid content, the 8 samples were approved, as they remained within the maximum limit established by Anvisa of 10% glycolic acid. Results: Regarding the pH evaluation, 4 samples presented values below the allowed, being that the use of products with pH below 3.5 may cause irritation and damage skin. Already in the analysis of the labels from compounding formulation samples, there was no recommendations and precautions of use. Conclusion: This way, the importance of quality control in glycolic acid containing products is evident to provide safety and efficacy to users.

RESUMEN Introducción: El ácido glicólico se aplica para el tratamiento estético y dermatológico en formulaciones antiarrugas (antienvejecimiento), exfoliantes químicos (peeling). Es de suma importancia realizar el control de calidad de los productos cosméticos que contienen ácido glicólico, teniendo en cuenta su amplio uso en productos cosméticos, para garantizar una mayor seguridad para los usuarios. Objetivo: Evaluar la calidad de los productos cosméticos de venta libre que contienen ácido glicólico disponibles en el mercado nacional. Materiales y métodos: Se evaluaron 8 muestras de productos cosméticos que contenían ácido glicólico. Las pruebas realizadas fueron: análisis de etiquetas, características organolépticas de los productos, determinación de pH, prueba de centrifugación y ensayo de ácido glicólico. En cuanto al contenido de ácido glicólico, las 8 muestras fueron aprobadas, ya que se mantuvieron dentro del límite máximo establecido por Anvisa para el ácido glicólico al 10%. Resultados: En cuanto a la valoración del pH, 4 muestras arrojaron valores inferiores a los permitidos y el uso de productos con un pH inferior a 3,5 puede provocar irritación y daño cutáneo. En el análisis de la etiqueta, las muestras manipuladas carecieron de las recomendaciones y precauciones de uso. Conclusión: De esta forma, se evidencia la importancia del control de calidad en los productos que contienen ácido glicólico para garantizar la seguridad y efectividad para los usuarios.

Vegetable moisturizing raw material from "Caatinga" Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

Avaliação da qualidade de alisantes capilares contendo tioglicolato de amônio / Quality control of capillary straighteners containing ammonium thioglycolate

RESUMO Considerando a demanda do mercado por conhecimento na área de alisamento capilar, é importante realizar o controle de qualidade de cremes alisantes, a fim de garantir a segurança dos usuários e dos profissionais da área de estética. Desse modo, o objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar a qualidade de cremes alisantes capilares que contêm em sua formulação o tioglicolato de amônio. Foram analisadas dez amostras de cremes alisantes. Os testes realizados foram: doseamento do ácido tioglicólico e de amônia, análise das características organolépticas e determinação do pH. Quanto ao teor de ácido tioglicólico, três amostras classificadas como de uso geral apresentaram quantidade acima do permitido. No entanto, todas as amostras (de uso geral e profissional) foram aprovadas quanto ao teor de amônia. Em relação à avaliação de pH, todas as amostras apresentaram valores acima do limite permitido. O uso de produtos com concentrações inadequadas de tioglicolato de amônio e pH acima do permitido podem gerar reações adversas ao consumidor e danos aos fios de cabelo. Sendo assim, verifica-se a importância do controle de qualidade em produtos cosméticos para proporcionar a segurança e eficácia dos mesmos.

SUMMARY Considering the market demand for knowledge in the area of hair straightening, it is important to perform quality control procedures in smoothing creams in order to ensure the safety of its users and the aesthetic professionals. The objective of this study was to evaluate the quality of capillary straighteners that contain ammonium thioglycolate in their formula. Ten samples of hair straighteners were analyzed. The tests performed were: dosing of thioglycolic acid and ammonia, analysis of organoleptic and pH determination. Regarding the thioglycolic acid content, three samples classified as of general use showed results above the allowed limit while all samples (both of general and professional use) were approved as far as the ammonia content goes. As for the pH evaluation, all samples had values above the established limit. The use of products with inadequate concentrations of ammonium thioglycolate and pH above the allowed limit can lead to adverse reactions to the consumer and cause damage to the hair strands. In conclusion, it is of the utmost importance to perform quality control procedures in these products in order to provide a safer experience while using them and avoid any possible adverse reactions.

Investigation of Sunscreen Agents Added in Sunblock Cosmetics / 环境与健康杂志

Objective To investigate the use situation of sunscreen agent in the sunblock cosmetics.Methods Statistic analysis was performed in the kinds,frequencies,dosages of sunsereen agents and the mark dosage coincidence in 414 cosmetics from Sep.2004 to Aug.2007.Results Fourteen kinds of sunscreen agents including phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid and its potassium,sodium and triethanolamine salts,benzophenone-4,benzophenone-5,benzophenone-3,isopentyl p-methoxycirmamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor,ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,octocrylene,ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,ethylhexyl salicylate,ethylhexyl triazone,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol,bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were detected in 414 cosmetics.The use frequency of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate was above 90%,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane was 30%,benzophenone-3 and ethylhexyl salicylate were 15% and 11% respectively,and others were less than 10%.The rate of exceed standard limit of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate,4-methylbenzylidene camphor ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA were 0.24%,0.97%,1.21%,0.48% and 0.24% respectively.The mark dosage coincidence rate of 14 kinds of sunscreen agents were from 42.9% to 89.5%.Conclusion The many kinds of sunscreen agents were used in the sunblock cosmetics,so the special attention should be paid to the cosmetics safety.